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I love instrutables

Sometimes it's the simplest tricks. My desk is really messy with various interests and not having to find more space for a third hand or other gripper makes this one a winner.

Your technique seems to use at least three times as much solder per joint as necessary. You must get through a lot of solder.

How to not melt the insulation.
Clean your iron's tip. Apply flux and solder to the tip. Clean it again.
Slide back the insulation, apply a "Soldering Heat Sink Clip" (available on Amazon or GC Electronics or elsewhere) to the bare part of the wire between the joint and the insulation. Clean the iron's tip again. Heat the joint and solder as much as needed. Remove the clip and slide the insulation back. The clip will stop excess heat from traveling up the wire. These clips are cheap, reusable, and will save the job if you are working in a confined space or with cheap PVC-insulated wire. They also can save cheap plugs and jacks from melting if there is room to apply them.
OR: Use PTFE-insulated wire. The insulation won't melt during soldering with an iron.
Did I suggest cleaning the iron? A dirty iron can give mysterious failures with any solder or technique.

About surface mount component soldering: It is already set up for successful, strong attachments. a) The components' legs are tiny so they don't suck heat out of the joint the way a wire does. b) They are often attached with low-temperature solder paste, that has a very high flux to solder ratio. c) They are often soldered in an oven over the course of 30 seconds, with 5-10 seconds above the melting point of the solder. This is longer than the typical iron soldering time.The action of flux is not instantaneous, so taking a little longer helps assure success. I solder 0805 and TSOT-23 surface mounts (look them up) with an iron set at 425 degrees Fahrenheit and low-temp paste applied with a syringe. The tip gets cleaned before every joint, and it is obvious when a joint is successful when the appearance changes from dull paste to shiny bead. Heating time is 1-3 seconds. The excess is removed with alcohol and a tiny brush.

Thanks Richard. I like it.

Two things to be aware of with this technique; first, there is no mechanical joint (essential for a reliable joint). Normally the mechanical joint is formed by the wire going through the hole in the plated hole.

Second, this technique doesn't allow the wire to get heated enough to take solder. In the example shown, solid wire is used, so it isn't apparent, but with stranded wire because the wire isn't heated, solder won't be wicked into the wire ... in other words, it's a cold joint. This is why the insulation doesn't melt... the wire doesn't get hot enough to take solder.

Having said all this, if your goal isn't ultimate reliability, you can get an awful lot done with this technique!

EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok. What if I have to insert a component first will this still work?

ATTENTION -Soldering techniques are polarizing! Why? Well.. because you are either doing it correctly or you are not. If you are following and achieving success with NASA guidelines. NIIIIICE! Most professionals are there, or close, or absolutely close enough to be paid to do so in a safe manner. <<<AS LONG AS >>> your project is for yourself..have fun and learn to solder better. ..and try to avoid cold solder joints- you will need to re-flow them at some point:)

Wow! Really awesome technique! Definetely gotta use it next time! Thanks for sharing, God bless you!!